Skin Basics
There are two major layers to the skin:-
- Epidermis, the outer layer, which is self-renewing, turning over monthly
- Dermis, the inner or deeper layer, which is the base on which the epidermis sits
These two layers both become thinner with age and are tied together with collagen and elastin strands that gives skin its plump appearance and elastic bounce. Collagen allows both layers to stretch and move with the muscles and then snap back into shape.
Lines and Wrinkles
Depending on one's genetics and how we have looked after our skin through the years, the signs of ageing start to show as early as the end of the second or the beginning of the third decade of a person's life.
With age and continued long-term sun exposure, skin loses its elasticity, because the dermis produces fewer and fewer collagen and elastin fibres. This results in the weakening of connective tissues, causing the skin to lose its tone and become flabby and wrinkles begin to develop. Gravity also acts in pulling and stretching the skin. The combination of continued destruction of collagen and elastin fibres, long-term exposure to sunlight results in skin losing its bounce and plump appearance and wrinkles deepen even more.
Old skin needs on average twice as long - as much as eight weeks - before it has renewed itself. Therefore, the wounds of older patients take longer to heal. The entire outer skin renews itself over a period of 27 days.
Free radicals are another contributing factor of skin ageing. External factors, like ultraviolet radiation, nicotine or unhealthy foods attack the collagen fibres, cellular membrane and lipid layer of the skin.
One of the basic ideas of modern anti-ageing therapy consists of making up for the deficiencies in hormones and antioxidants caused by advanced ageing, i.e. by supplying the body with the appropriate hormone and vitamin supplements.
Skin Peeling
Skin peeling dates back over 3500 years to ancient Egyptians. It is nothing new. Egyptian women bathed in sour milk and rubbed fermented grape skins from wine barrels over their skin to enhance beauty. Milk acids, known as lactic acid, and tartaric acid in grape's skin have become a popular ingredient in many beauty formulations. Many beauty spas are now using machines such as microdermabrasion and Intense Pulse Light to complement their skin-rejuvenation programs.
When the skin is peeled, new skin develops over time. A new band of collagen will grow along with a thicker outer epidermis skin layer. Hence your skin will appear smoother and more rejuvenated.
There are three main ways of peeling the skin:
- Chemicals (Fruit Acids, Acetic Acids)
- Mechanical Machines (Microdermabrasion and Macrodermabrasion)
- Laser Machines
The amount of skin removed will depend on the method used. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages and more importantly the skin type (colour, texture, sensitivity) will determine which treatment option is best suited for you. Due to the complexity of this topic you should always consult with your skin doctor before deciding on any skin-rejuvenation treatment.
Caution should be taken to have all pigment spots on the skin examined by a qualified skin doctor before any skin peeling is performed. Unfortunately, some sunspots are mistaken by non-medical practitioners as "OK", but are actually skin cancers.
Sun and Sunbeds: The facts - friend or foe
Sunlight aids in the formation of vitamin D3, essential for bone growth. It also controls hormone balance, assists with the immune system and the body's adjustment to the rhythm of sleep and waking.
The sun has a negative side as well. Skin ageing caused by sunlight is also known as "photo (light) ageing". Long-term exposure causes continual wear and tear changes, with further loss of elasticity and support of the skin resulting in wrinkles. The earlier we expose our skin to sun the faster wrinkles will appear. This is known as "premature" photo ageing.
SUNBEDS (Ultraviolet type A radiation, UV-A)
Sun beds emit long-wave radiation, also known as UV-A. UV-A makes the skin tan rapidly, but the tanning effect does not last. They do not emit UV-B. The proportion of UV-A is much higher in sun beds than in sunlight. UVA, because it is long wave, penetrates deeply into the connective tissues of the dermis and damages the collagen and elastin fibres, making the skin age quicker. Sun beds accelerate skin ageing and the formation of wrinkles to a significant degree. UV-A radiation does not cause sunburn; we now know that UVA is carcinogenic (cancer forming).
NATURAL SUNLIGHT (Ultraviolet type B radiation, UV-B)
Natural sunlight is mainly short-wave radiation, also known as UV-B. UV-B is more powerful and aggressive than UV-A radiation. It only penetrates the outer skin (epidermis), but it produces the dangerous effect of sunburn along with skin cancer. Sunburn is damage to the skin. UV-B radiation also stimulates the pigment cells to form our desired tan. UV-B tans the skin slower, but the effect lasts longer. UV-B radiation accelerates premature ageing of the skin and the formation of wrinkles.
UV-C Radiation
Short-wave UV-C is the most aggressive and does not reach the surface of the earth as it is held in check by the ozone layer.
So both solariums (UV-A) and natural sunlight (UV-B) damage the skin, causing skin cancer and destroying the scaffolding of the collagen and elastin fibres that support the skin, leading to wrinkles.
Basic Tips for Skincare and the Prevention of Wrinkles
Mature skin is characterised by an excessive loss of moisture, reduced tone and enhanced sensitivity. The aim is to give skin back its required moisture, encourage cell activity and support the process of regeneration. Given the Australian harsh climate it is important to always use protective UV sunscreens, sun blocks and moisturisers to prevent water evaporation from the skin surface.
The following list gives some of the better-known effective ingredients in skin care. So look for these ingredients when choosing a skin-care product. It is important that the 'active' ingredient, that is, the active compound that really works underneath the skin appears in the first three ingredients on the containers label.
AHA acids (alphahydroxyacids): These are natural fruit and lactic acids found in grapes, apples, olives, lemons and milk. They are able to penetrate the skin. These acids have a beneficial effect on the collagen fibres in the connective tissue.
Antioxidants: Are in the form of vitamins C and E and beta-carotene. These work to counteract the damage caused by free radicals.
Azelic Acid: Has skin-lightening effects.
Retinal: Also known as Vitamin A. Research shows that Vitamin A is a particularly effective agent in the battle against free radicals. It speeds up cell regeneration and limits the depth of wrinkles.
Co-enzyme Q-10: Is a fat-soluble antioxidant that has been scientifically shown to combat free radicals, and encourages cell regeneration.
Collagen/elastin: Containing compounds that are important elements in the skin's supportive structure. Products containing collagen can give the skin its required moisture and make the connective tissue firmer. Many skin products claim to have collagen within them, but the concentrations are so small that they really do not work or are not able to penetrate the skin to actively work.
Kojic Acid: A natural skin-lightening agent derived from Japanese mushroom.
Panthenol/pro-vitamin B5: Is a special form of Vitamin B5. It has a soothing effect on skin irritations and sunburn and consequently used as an after sun-lotion.
Sunscreens (absorb UV rays)/Sunblocks (deflect UV rays): Should contain a high SPF factor and provide broad-spectrum sun protection.
